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Discussion Starter #1
How would I go about doing this? My boys bike is dying intermittently but seemingly when it is wet. I am sure there is a proceedure for doing this but I can't seem to find it.

Thanks for any help

Steve
 

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generally with stators coils there is two wires hanging off of em. It's a actually one wire that runs round and round all the posts, and back to the begining. All you need is some sort of test meter, or digital volt ohm meter. Put it on the continuity setting , and touch a lead to each wire. If you get any number besides " OL " or a beep it means your stator has no break in it, hense a good part technically, but could still mean there is a bad connection somewhere. there should be a spec available somewhere to go by. The coil can be tricky though I would check it with the same idea in mind but there is a primary winding, and a secondary winding in em. I think the large wire going to the plug is your secondary( large wire fewer coils around the iron core should have little resistance), and the smaller ones are are the primary coil windings. ( smaller diameter wire with many coils around the iron will equal high resistance) just try to touch one lead on a meter to what you think may be "ground" or where the iron core is, and the other to the ends of the primary, then the same with the secondary... make sure the meter is on the continuity setting. I have never looked at a predator coil however, so I could be full of crap. ha ha.
 

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To obtain pictures, surf:


http://community.webshots.com/album/262582347LVsyKh



Always remember that "approx" A = B + C. And if you get a zero reading, then then the bobins on the stator assembly is shot.


Hope this helps....


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Discussion Starter #4
I should prolly get my hands on a puller and at least pull off the flywheel and check out how dirty/clean the stator anyway...ya think?
 

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For me, I now pull the flywheel off every 6 months (every year when NOT mud riding) and give the stator a good cleaning. When our stator blew, I pulled the flywheel off and discovered


http://community.webshots.com/photo/262582347/1284458786052910875adkOPq




To clean the stator assembley, completely remove it, and give it lots of rinses with "spray on" brake fluid cleaner. It will need lots of rinces. After that's done, use masking tape to cover its "sensors", then give it 2 coats of ignition silicone spray. The stuff I used many times is


http://community.webshots.com/photo/262582347/1284443778052910875hpTlRr



If your PRed-90 has some "down time", I'd pull its stator assembly and give it a good cleaning. Less mud / crud means less heat build up. Thus, making the stator last much longer.



Also, don't forget to install a 10 Guage wire from the "-" battery post to the frame. And another 10 guage wire from the frame to the engine. This helps reduce stator burn outs and ingnition coil burn out outs as well.



Hope this helps....

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes it does...thanks
 

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Hello,

The mini Predators are known for the stators going out (ours has gone out twice.) If you find that your stator and coil are OK, Another common problem (at least with a lot of people I know who have Predator 90's) is an air lock in the gas tank. My daughters quad would die out during a race, but then start right back up again. Come to find out she was getting an air lock in the gas tank. We relocated the hose on her gas cap and have not had a problem since. (It was running down the neck of the frame, so we took it out of there and relocated it on the outside of the frame.)


Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
LOL...my cap doesn't have a vent line
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My buddy pulled the flywheel and clogged with dirt. He says...lets check the compression while we are here...100. Everything else looked ok so it is a new set of rings as well...crud. Better than a new piston etc. I suppose
 

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For a pure stock Pred-90 engine, 100 PSI is ok. Actually, 100 PSI great for a used engine. 120 is fresh, 100-90 is running average, 90-80 is too warn and 85-60 is "buy the needed parts now". If pure stock engine and PSI is 100, I'd leave it "as is".


As a suggestion, run the engine until you do need an upper engine rebuild. Instead of buying new rings, one could buy a new upper end kit. For example, 53 MM kit with 145/150 PSI compression. I installed a kit from Billy Holt at WRH Racing. Installed it within 20 minutes. Much easier then replacing stock rings.


Hope this helps as well...


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I should prolly get my hands on a puller and at least pull off the flywheel and check out how dirty/clean the stator anyway...ya think?
Yes. That PB Blaster is excellent, my flwheel took very littlle torque to remove, I have lack of spark on my stock 400 Scrambler 4x4. Kinda satisfying to work on them ourselves, simple compared to new automotive like UTVS! People who ride in deep mud and water who don't do a higher level of maintenance are kinda ignorant I think. Note, ur engine will last two, three times longer if you will ride real easy for a few minutes to allow water temp to equalize.
 
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