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I've posted this on many other forums and wanted to post it here so that you don't rack your head trying to figure out what is wrong with your machine, this problem can be when it is dry like mine did, but really affected when you run through water or mud:

It usually appears as the machine may go in to limp mode, or start sputtering, and running like crap.

If you run the diagnostic mode, via turning the key off/on 3 times quick, you will usually get an error code 51 with this problem. Code 51 is 'fuel injector #1 short to ground, short to battery, or open load'. It won't always be this error code, but is what happened on mine.

What happened to me and I've helped others with is that the coil arcs out of the plug cap to ground. As you get to higher RPM's, the problem gets worse as the arcing is causing the spark plug to not fire consistently or enough. It can load up the plug and foul it.

The problem is on the coil. The dual coil is mounted to a panel inside the front left fender well. There is one bolt going through the center of the coil mounting it to the panel, which mounts to the frame. The problem is not the coil, but the bolt that goes through the coil is a working chassis ground, i.e. it is the ground for the coils. Its not the control ground, that comes from the ECU (computer), but it requires a chassis ground and the bolt is what makes the ground.

You can tell if you have this problem by a couple of ways...you will see the arc coming out of the plug wire at the coil and go to the frame (upper strut mount), easier to see at night. You can also (with the machine off), grab the coil and see if you can rotate it....if you can rotate it, then the ground, mount bolt is loose and needs to be tightened.

In order to tighten, you need to remove the two bolts on the mount plate. They screw directly in to the frame. Once removed, you can get to the bolt head on the backside, you cannot do it from the front without removing the panel bolts, it has no lockwasher and will just turn.

Once you have the panel off, position the coil straight and tighten down the nut....you may want to try slipping a thin lockwasher under the nut, but mine hasn't come loose. Once you get the bolt tightened down, remount the panel with coil attached, to the frame.
 

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Mostly Harmless
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Excellent write-up... thanks! If I have the time to pull my SP800 out of the trailer this weekend, I'll check it out.

Rob
 

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elkbow - thank you for the info. i am glad you are a supporting member, your info.... is very helpful and i hope all members take the time to read this. i hope you cont. to inlighten us with your knowledge thanks again.
 

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Thanks, Elkbow. I'll put a star lockwasher to good use tomorrow. After I have good electrical contact, liquid neoprene sealant will do a good job protecting from rust & corrosion.
 

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Great Article: I have had a similar issue and I believe its all from day 1.
The machine has always sounded like it has started on one cylinder then the second one would kick a few seconds later.
I could not get the thing started after a ride recently. Today I dug down in and did the normal checks, spark, fuel both checked good. So it should run! No way.
I pulled the plugs again and tested the again only this time when I was holding the boot I got a good jolt. Hum. I grabbed a pair of pliers and cranked it again putting the boot close to some metal and snap the dam things arcing through the boot. So every time I put it back in the hole it must be arcing inside the hole and not all to the end of the plug. I sprayed it with silicone spray and let it dry put it back together and sure enough the thing started. I am a little upset the amount of times I have changed spark plugs and I bet all this time it wasn't the spark plugs that where the issue.
Moral of the story is if you are fouling a bunch of plugs or have a rough idle, check the coil ground and plug wires!!
 

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Thanks Elkbow, that info was a tremendous help. I have a 2014 570 EFI Ranger Crew .Although my problem was not the ground as you spoke about in your post but it led me to checking all that out which checked out all good, but I did pull the spark plug wire out of the cylinder head to see if there was a problem there which it was not or didn't seem to be, so I reinstall the plug wire not really finding anything. While standing there scratching my head and my a** I decided to crank the engine to see if there were any sparking anywhere. It fired right up and purred like a kitten. So I assumed the plug wire was just not making good connection. I took it for a test drive at idling speed, slow acceleration, fast acceleration and everything in between. Drove it a couple of miles and it never bobbled. I guess we got it fixed, Thanks again. SO FOR ANYONE HAVING THIS TYPE PROBLEM, CHECK THE EASY STUFF FIRST, CHECK TO BE SURE THE SPARK PLUG WIRE IS MAKING A GOOD CONNECTION.
 
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