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new to the site but there was some confusion for me when I seen all the jetting and popping talk. I used a gps and i'm at about 2500 ft above sea level. my dealer said just put the pipe on and drop the filter in no jetting required. so first I tried the pipe alone and it worked perfect. then I droped the k&n in without the prefilter and it even got better. all the way to the rev limiter it was smooth. now if you are any higher than 2500 ft maybe you will need to rejet. i don't know but from sea level to 2500, no prob. just alittle advice for someone else who might be confused. also the front brakes sticking I was told by the dealer was caused by the bolts. he said the caliper would sit caulk-eyed and cause the pad to jam up on the rotor. he said there was a recall and if you look at your front caliper bolts they sould be marked with green paint on the heed. this implies that it was fixed. so far no trouble with my predator. except can't get as much ridding in as i would like to. hope I helped somebody
 

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For one... I ride at 4000-4500' and my stock jetting is absolutely fine with the drop-in filter and pipe with all eight discs. So from sea level to 4500' we're okay.

For another... the front brakes sticking seems to vary from Predator to Predator. In my case, it was swolen piston seals. The bolts themselves cannot possibly cause brakes to stick. Your dealer is 100% full of crap. The clearances are very tight and the pads can't sit "cockeyed" and cause problems in the way he suggests. I've worked on enough brake systems in my time to know this.

Thanks for the info, but I wouldn't trust anything your dealer says.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah I can understand that even if the bolts were moderately loose the caliper still couldn't twist enough to ride the rotor and cause the wheel not to spin, but there was infact a recall on the front brake caliper bolts thats all I know. it sounded like it made sense when he told me. I guess if the caliper was loose it might cause the piston to come out further than normal, because it would be pushing the caliper away from the mount at the same time as applying the pad even if it was only thousands of an inch. if this happened maybe the piston could get off center enough to put excessive force on the seal and cause it swell and therefore make the piston wanna stick. thats all I could think of. unless the seals were just deffective.
 

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I do think there are issues with the calipers, but Im thinkin alot has to do with the master cylinder too......Rob, your still runnin ok? Ill be glad to hear a final word from Polaris on this issue........Has any of you heard of cracking porblems with your frame s yet? I gotts go get our checked out this week to find out if its the frame or the paint.....UGH I hope not!!! I am clueless if this would be a covered item on my warrenty or not..... TINA
 

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Mine is still running great! I have some gunk in my carb so it stumbles from time to time, but I'm about to correct that with a nice carb-soaking bath (as soon as I finish doing the carb on my Grizzly).

I do believe that there's a master cyl problem just like you described a few weeks ago, but I think that the caliper seals could end up being a problem too.

Frames... haven't heard a thing about them cracking. I did hear about an a-arm with a cracked weld early on, but Polaris exchanged it under warranty with no questions. I saw your thread about cracked frames... if yours is cracked, I'm sure they'll exchange it under warranty because they will want to study it to see how it might have failed.

Rob
 

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good to hear Ill be finding out for sure this week. I hope its ok, cause Im ready to order my new pipe and nerfs any day now!!! :) TINA
 
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