Oil Injector
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
I sent some small "Oil Injection Removal" info to your email id. The email id you used to register to obtain an id on this forum. If if don't get the info, please PM me your direct internet email id. I'll send you the info - without going throught this email portal interface.
Hope this helps...
Hope this helps...
i was interested in your info you had on oil injection removal let me know,thanks
big daddy,
Check your email. If you didn't get the info, please PM me. I can send you the same info via PM.
.
Check your email. If you didn't get the info, please PM me. I can send you the same info via PM.
.
I need this info as well. I am not trusting the injector anymore. Thanks
Mike G check your email and see if the info spike sent me went through, its all good info that has helped me out
Got it taken care of. Thanks for all the help.
Joined
·
7 Posts
I would like to get than info please...........
If I read your post properly, it sounds like you want a copy of the same Oil Injection removal instruction I sent to another user. If so, see below....
--------------------
Removing factory Oil Injection system
What you'll need to do is remove the white oil pump gear and pin behind the flywheel to eliminate the oil injection. By doing this, you’ll remove some of the spring pull from the thumb lever and obtain up to 1 more horsepower from the engine.
1. This method that does NOT require any messing with the cylinder:
a) Drain the gas from the tank.
b) Turn your gas off.
c) Stand the quad up on its tail (use a small mat as to not scratch the bar).
d) Remove any floor boards or plastic in your way (I removed the seat, all the body screws, the 4 bolts holding on the handlebar, the battery, the fuel dial, unplug the electric thingy by the battery then lift the whole body up and swing it 180 degrees).
e) Remove the fan cover (3 screws). Remove the fan (4 screws). Remove the large nut and washer holding on the flywheel.
f) Remove the flywheel using a standard puller. (I believe the puller for a Honda XL will fit. I used a harmonic balancer puller, but Raptor said that this could bend the flywheel. Mine came off effortlessly).
g) Remove the two screws holding the stator plate (not the 2 screws holding on the stator) in place (you don't need to un-plug it, just pull the rubber gromet toward the stator to give more room. Be very careful not to nick or bang the stator around. Just take your time).
h) Remove the gasket that was behind the Stator. Be careful not to tear it.
i) Remove the clip that holds the white plastic gear in place. Remove the gear and also remove the gear drive pin. (Snap ring pliers)
j) Reassemble in reverse order (Replace the snap ring clip, but leave out the white plastic gear and it's drive pin)
k) Replace the throttle cable with a single cable. You can purchase a single throttle cable directly from www.terrycable.com I purchased theirs and it works great!!!!
l) Plug the oil inlet by soldering up the hole in the carb or with a vacuum plug (I soldered mine. If you use a vacuum plug and it falls off you can lean out the motor and do some damage)
m) Have fun!!!!
Notes:
- Mix Maxima 927 at 32:1 (because you are now mixing oil in the gas, you may need to jet up to prevent a lean burn condition). I did not have to mess with the stock jetting after removing the carb and exhaust restrictors and removing the oil injection. Only after replacing the air filter with a K&N and changing the reeds did I need to re-jet. Just check the spark plug. Also, go to Walmart and pick up a few NGK BR7HS plugs.
- As for parts, you can get plugs and the Carlisle Snow Hogs from Walmart (if there’s one nearby). As for the rest of the parts, look no further than the guys on this forum. They all have web sites and are good at getting you what you need quickly. Raptor720 has helped me out a lot with my mini. He is close to Trinity, does stuff there, but doesn't work for them. But he can get you stuff too. He's also tricked out a mini with major modifications.
Tony P.
=========================
From Raptor720 – Dec 20, 2003:
There are three generally accepted methods to to disconnect your factory Oil Injection System. These are:
1. A quick "see if you like it" approach:
a) Remove the small 3/16" oil tube from the carb. Cap the hose barb on the carb with a rubber cap or cut about 3/4" of the 3/16 tubing and plug it with a BB or other small round object. Use this piece as the cap to plug the hose barb. Get about 3' of 3/16 vac hose from a local auto parts house. Push the one end of the hose you removed from the carb into the vac hose about 1.5" or farther.
b) Route the vac hose up to the oil injection tank. Poke a hole in the oil take rubber cap using a screw driver or similar object. Push the vac hose into the rubber cap about 2".
c) Reinstall the rubber cap and make sure there is at least 1/2 a tank of injector oil to recalculate.
Notes:
- This method is used if you are not installing a pipe.
- This method allows you to easily convert back to injector oil if you plan on selling the ATV or if you are stuck in the woods without mix oil. Simply place the line back on the carb.
2. If thumb throttle pressure is the objectionable…
a) Remove the fan cover on the right side of the engine to expose the oil injector pump. It is located near the lower front of the flywheel.
b) Carefully look how the bell crank return spring is wound and mounted. If you are careful, you can hook the spring mounts onto different locations and it greatly reduce the total spring tension to the thumb throttle.
c) Remove the oil injector tank. Plug the hose barb on the carb with a rubber cap or use a hot soldering iron to soldier seal the hose barb.
d) Remove the fan cover on the right side of the engine.
e) Pull the flywheel using the correct threaded puller. If one is not available (note: most models except for Kasea, use a standard Yamaha magneto puller available at Yamaha for about 20 bucks) try a two or three bolt puller (steering wheel type). Be careful not to thread the puller bolts too far into the mag. You will damage the stator!
f) If it does not pop off, tap the puller main bolt with a hammer to help break the mount free.
g) Remove the two screws that hold the stator to the engine and tip the stator away.
h) Carefully remove the stator gasket.
i) Remove the clip that holds the plastic drive gear to the crank.
j) Pull the drive gear.
k) Locate and remove the drive pin from the crank.
l) Reinstall the gasket, stator and flywheel. At this point, you can reduce pump spring tension as described above, eliminate the cable completely by using a single cable conversion and/or remove the injector pump. Note: You really don't need to cover the injector pump hole but if you do, a simple brass freeze plug from the auto parts store will do the job for about a buck.
3. Removal of the pump:
Another method that can be used with the above method or alone requires the removal of the pump.
In most cases, you can simply remove the two mount screws and pull the pump out. Some engines, you will find that the pump will hit the cylinder as you try to pull it clear. In this case, the cylinder will need to be raised slightly to remove the pump.
Note:
- Each method will also allow you to now mix oil and fuel in the gas tank. I recommend a 32:1 ratio using and 2-stroke oil that contains ash. Don't use oils designed for water-cooled engines (or reduced ash oil)!
===================
From Dave @ www.bncracing.com
The easiest way is to remove the seat, disconnect the oil line from the oil tank, remove the oil tank, remove the oil line from the intake manifold, and plug that hole. After that, I just cut the oil line to the pump somewhere above the fan shroud (be sure to leave enough left to splice in a new hose should you want to reconnect it later), plug the hose with a screw, cut the oil pump output hose (again leaving room...) and plug it. I also disconnect the oil pump throttle cable, though you could simply cut it. Drain the gas, fill with pre-mix, replace the seat, and you're done. Be sure to mix according to the oil manufactures specs. Not pretty, but it's fast and easy.
It's always best to remove the pump, but it doesn't hurt to leave it in. I only remove them if I install an after market ignition system or do other work that exposes that area. The pump is driven by a nylon worm gear so even if the pump were to sieze, the gear would strip and you'd probably never know. I wouldn't worry about hooking the hoses together, just plug them to keep dirt out.
----------------
Hope this helps....
.
--------------------
Removing factory Oil Injection system
What you'll need to do is remove the white oil pump gear and pin behind the flywheel to eliminate the oil injection. By doing this, you’ll remove some of the spring pull from the thumb lever and obtain up to 1 more horsepower from the engine.
1. This method that does NOT require any messing with the cylinder:
a) Drain the gas from the tank.
b) Turn your gas off.
c) Stand the quad up on its tail (use a small mat as to not scratch the bar).
d) Remove any floor boards or plastic in your way (I removed the seat, all the body screws, the 4 bolts holding on the handlebar, the battery, the fuel dial, unplug the electric thingy by the battery then lift the whole body up and swing it 180 degrees).
e) Remove the fan cover (3 screws). Remove the fan (4 screws). Remove the large nut and washer holding on the flywheel.
f) Remove the flywheel using a standard puller. (I believe the puller for a Honda XL will fit. I used a harmonic balancer puller, but Raptor said that this could bend the flywheel. Mine came off effortlessly).
g) Remove the two screws holding the stator plate (not the 2 screws holding on the stator) in place (you don't need to un-plug it, just pull the rubber gromet toward the stator to give more room. Be very careful not to nick or bang the stator around. Just take your time).
h) Remove the gasket that was behind the Stator. Be careful not to tear it.
i) Remove the clip that holds the white plastic gear in place. Remove the gear and also remove the gear drive pin. (Snap ring pliers)
j) Reassemble in reverse order (Replace the snap ring clip, but leave out the white plastic gear and it's drive pin)
k) Replace the throttle cable with a single cable. You can purchase a single throttle cable directly from www.terrycable.com I purchased theirs and it works great!!!!
l) Plug the oil inlet by soldering up the hole in the carb or with a vacuum plug (I soldered mine. If you use a vacuum plug and it falls off you can lean out the motor and do some damage)
m) Have fun!!!!
Notes:
- Mix Maxima 927 at 32:1 (because you are now mixing oil in the gas, you may need to jet up to prevent a lean burn condition). I did not have to mess with the stock jetting after removing the carb and exhaust restrictors and removing the oil injection. Only after replacing the air filter with a K&N and changing the reeds did I need to re-jet. Just check the spark plug. Also, go to Walmart and pick up a few NGK BR7HS plugs.
- As for parts, you can get plugs and the Carlisle Snow Hogs from Walmart (if there’s one nearby). As for the rest of the parts, look no further than the guys on this forum. They all have web sites and are good at getting you what you need quickly. Raptor720 has helped me out a lot with my mini. He is close to Trinity, does stuff there, but doesn't work for them. But he can get you stuff too. He's also tricked out a mini with major modifications.
Tony P.
=========================
From Raptor720 – Dec 20, 2003:
There are three generally accepted methods to to disconnect your factory Oil Injection System. These are:
1. A quick "see if you like it" approach:
a) Remove the small 3/16" oil tube from the carb. Cap the hose barb on the carb with a rubber cap or cut about 3/4" of the 3/16 tubing and plug it with a BB or other small round object. Use this piece as the cap to plug the hose barb. Get about 3' of 3/16 vac hose from a local auto parts house. Push the one end of the hose you removed from the carb into the vac hose about 1.5" or farther.
b) Route the vac hose up to the oil injection tank. Poke a hole in the oil take rubber cap using a screw driver or similar object. Push the vac hose into the rubber cap about 2".
c) Reinstall the rubber cap and make sure there is at least 1/2 a tank of injector oil to recalculate.
Notes:
- This method is used if you are not installing a pipe.
- This method allows you to easily convert back to injector oil if you plan on selling the ATV or if you are stuck in the woods without mix oil. Simply place the line back on the carb.
2. If thumb throttle pressure is the objectionable…
a) Remove the fan cover on the right side of the engine to expose the oil injector pump. It is located near the lower front of the flywheel.
b) Carefully look how the bell crank return spring is wound and mounted. If you are careful, you can hook the spring mounts onto different locations and it greatly reduce the total spring tension to the thumb throttle.
c) Remove the oil injector tank. Plug the hose barb on the carb with a rubber cap or use a hot soldering iron to soldier seal the hose barb.
d) Remove the fan cover on the right side of the engine.
e) Pull the flywheel using the correct threaded puller. If one is not available (note: most models except for Kasea, use a standard Yamaha magneto puller available at Yamaha for about 20 bucks) try a two or three bolt puller (steering wheel type). Be careful not to thread the puller bolts too far into the mag. You will damage the stator!
f) If it does not pop off, tap the puller main bolt with a hammer to help break the mount free.
g) Remove the two screws that hold the stator to the engine and tip the stator away.
h) Carefully remove the stator gasket.
i) Remove the clip that holds the plastic drive gear to the crank.
j) Pull the drive gear.
k) Locate and remove the drive pin from the crank.
l) Reinstall the gasket, stator and flywheel. At this point, you can reduce pump spring tension as described above, eliminate the cable completely by using a single cable conversion and/or remove the injector pump. Note: You really don't need to cover the injector pump hole but if you do, a simple brass freeze plug from the auto parts store will do the job for about a buck.
3. Removal of the pump:
Another method that can be used with the above method or alone requires the removal of the pump.
In most cases, you can simply remove the two mount screws and pull the pump out. Some engines, you will find that the pump will hit the cylinder as you try to pull it clear. In this case, the cylinder will need to be raised slightly to remove the pump.
Note:
- Each method will also allow you to now mix oil and fuel in the gas tank. I recommend a 32:1 ratio using and 2-stroke oil that contains ash. Don't use oils designed for water-cooled engines (or reduced ash oil)!
===================
From Dave @ www.bncracing.com
The easiest way is to remove the seat, disconnect the oil line from the oil tank, remove the oil tank, remove the oil line from the intake manifold, and plug that hole. After that, I just cut the oil line to the pump somewhere above the fan shroud (be sure to leave enough left to splice in a new hose should you want to reconnect it later), plug the hose with a screw, cut the oil pump output hose (again leaving room...) and plug it. I also disconnect the oil pump throttle cable, though you could simply cut it. Drain the gas, fill with pre-mix, replace the seat, and you're done. Be sure to mix according to the oil manufactures specs. Not pretty, but it's fast and easy.
It's always best to remove the pump, but it doesn't hurt to leave it in. I only remove them if I install an after market ignition system or do other work that exposes that area. The pump is driven by a nylon worm gear so even if the pump were to sieze, the gear would strip and you'd probably never know. I wouldn't worry about hooking the hoses together, just plug them to keep dirt out.
----------------
Hope this helps....
.
After I did this I noticed running a premix of 32 to 1 the quad seemed to run alot better and blow alot less smoke. has anyone had this happen? I am running a FMF Pipe, a Uni Air Filter, WHR Reeds and have a 95 main jet. Does this sound right? I am at about 2500 feet. Before I put in the new reeds and went to the premix it was running bad. Now it seems to be running great. Does anyone have this set up and if so what size jet are you using? Mike
My son's '03 Pred-90 is stock with upgraded reeds, modified snorkle and its oil injection system (and wheel) removed. Like you, I too immediately noticed his engine runs much better. Seems to sound smoother, have more power (could be the snorkle & reeds upgrade) and like you, I too immediately noticed his unit smokes much less. To me, the pre-mix oil even smells better then injector oil. If wondering, I'd remove the factory oil injection system from my son's unit again. Having it removed has given us many more positives...
.
.
Mike G.
To me, your "I am running a FMF Pipe, a Uni Air Filter, WHR Reeds and have a 95 main jet at about 2500 feet." sounds like the right combination of performance parts based on your region.
To be sure, check the Spark Plug Reading multiple times, then teak the jet if necessary. But overall, the "90/95/100 range main jet with FMF, Reeds and Air Filter upgrade is the baseline starting point for many.
.
To me, your "I am running a FMF Pipe, a Uni Air Filter, WHR Reeds and have a 95 main jet at about 2500 feet." sounds like the right combination of performance parts based on your region.
To be sure, check the Spark Plug Reading multiple times, then teak the jet if necessary. But overall, the "90/95/100 range main jet with FMF, Reeds and Air Filter upgrade is the baseline starting point for many.
.
Well It is hard to get the plug reading right cause I usually keep the throttle turned down for my son. The reason I did the mods was for trying to get more low end which now seems better. Thanks for letting me know that I am in the right neighborhood with this. Mike
Mike,
unfortunately you are probably always gonna have some issues if you have the throttle limiter in use. 2 strokes need to blow themselves out or else they load up and start fouling plugs. I am not saying you should turn your kid loose but you are going to need to keep some extra spark plugs around.
Here is a thought, gear the quad down and get rid of the limiter. Change out your sprockets to get alot more bottom end and less top speed, it may give you the torque you need and alow the motor to clean itself out.
Chris
unfortunately you are probably always gonna have some issues if you have the throttle limiter in use. 2 strokes need to blow themselves out or else they load up and start fouling plugs. I am not saying you should turn your kid loose but you are going to need to keep some extra spark plugs around.
Here is a thought, gear the quad down and get rid of the limiter. Change out your sprockets to get alot more bottom end and less top speed, it may give you the torque you need and alow the motor to clean itself out.
Chris
Chris, That is what I figured. That is why the first thing I did when I got it home was to remove the cdi jumper. I have gone up to a 37 tooth on the rear but it did not do much. If i go much bigger then that the chian guard will not fit of the chain for that matter. Do you know of where I could get a smaller front sprocket and what size I should try? Thanks, Mike
Hi everyone,
Just removed the Oil Injection from both the 50 and 90. What oil does everyone recommend with the premix?
I've been running polaris 2 cycle oil.
Thanks for any input...
Just removed the Oil Injection from both the 50 and 90. What oil does everyone recommend with the premix?
I've been running polaris 2 cycle oil.
Thanks for any input...
If I read your post properly, it sounds like you want a copy of the same Oil Injection removal instruction I sent to another user. If so, see below....
--------------------
Removing factory Oil Injection system
What you'll need to do is remove the white oil pump gear and pin behind the flywheel to eliminate the oil injection. By doing this, you’ll remove some of the spring pull from the thumb lever and obtain up to 1 more horsepower from the engine.
1. This method that does NOT require any messing with the cylinder:
a) Drain the gas from the tank.
b) Turn your gas off.
c) Stand the quad up on its tail (use a small mat as to not scratch the bar).
d) Remove any floor boards or plastic in your way (I removed the seat, all the body screws, the 4 bolts holding on the handlebar, the battery, the fuel dial, unplug the electric thingy by the battery then lift the whole body up and swing it 180 degrees).
e) Remove the fan cover (3 screws). Remove the fan (4 screws). Remove the large nut and washer holding on the flywheel.
f) Remove the flywheel using a standard puller. (I believe the puller for a Honda XL will fit. I used a harmonic balancer puller, but Raptor said that this could bend the flywheel. Mine came off effortlessly).
g) Remove the two screws holding the stator plate (not the 2 screws holding on the stator) in place (you don't need to un-plug it, just pull the rubber gromet toward the stator to give more room. Be very careful not to nick or bang the stator around. Just take your time).
h) Remove the gasket that was behind the Stator. Be careful not to tear it.
i) Remove the clip that holds the white plastic gear in place. Remove the gear and also remove the gear drive pin. (Snap ring pliers)
j) Reassemble in reverse order (Replace the snap ring clip, but leave out the white plastic gear and it's drive pin)
k) Replace the throttle cable with a single cable. You can purchase a single throttle cable directly from www.terrycable.com I purchased theirs and it works great!!!!
l) Plug the oil inlet by soldering up the hole in the carb or with a vacuum plug (I soldered mine. If you use a vacuum plug and it falls off you can lean out the motor and do some damage)
m) Have fun!!!!
Notes:
- Mix Maxima 927 at 32:1 (because you are now mixing oil in the gas, you may need to jet up to prevent a lean burn condition). I did not have to mess with the stock jetting after removing the carb and exhaust restrictors and removing the oil injection. Only after replacing the air filter with a K&N and changing the reeds did I need to re-jet. Just check the spark plug. Also, go to Walmart and pick up a few NGK BR7HS plugs.
- As for parts, you can get plugs and the Carlisle Snow Hogs from Walmart (if there’s one nearby). As for the rest of the parts, look no further than the guys on this forum. They all have web sites and are good at getting you what you need quickly. Raptor720 has helped me out a lot with my mini. He is close to Trinity, does stuff there, but doesn't work for them. But he can get you stuff too. He's also tricked out a mini with major modifications.
Tony P.
=========================
From Raptor720 – Dec 20, 2003:
There are three generally accepted methods to to disconnect your factory Oil Injection System. These are:
1. A quick "see if you like it" approach:
a) Remove the small 3/16" oil tube from the carb. Cap the hose barb on the carb with a rubber cap or cut about 3/4" of the 3/16 tubing and plug it with a BB or other small round object. Use this piece as the cap to plug the hose barb. Get about 3' of 3/16 vac hose from a local auto parts house. Push the one end of the hose you removed from the carb into the vac hose about 1.5" or farther.
b) Route the vac hose up to the oil injection tank. Poke a hole in the oil take rubber cap using a screw driver or similar object. Push the vac hose into the rubber cap about 2".
c) Reinstall the rubber cap and make sure there is at least 1/2 a tank of injector oil to recalculate.
Notes:
- This method is used if you are not installing a pipe.
- This method allows you to easily convert back to injector oil if you plan on selling the ATV or if you are stuck in the woods without mix oil. Simply place the line back on the carb.
2. If thumb throttle pressure is the objectionable…
a) Remove the fan cover on the right side of the engine to expose the oil injector pump. It is located near the lower front of the flywheel.
b) Carefully look how the bell crank return spring is wound and mounted. If you are careful, you can hook the spring mounts onto different locations and it greatly reduce the total spring tension to the thumb throttle.
c) Remove the oil injector tank. Plug the hose barb on the carb with a rubber cap or use a hot soldering iron to soldier seal the hose barb.
d) Remove the fan cover on the right side of the engine.
e) Pull the flywheel using the correct threaded puller. If one is not available (note: most models except for Kasea, use a standard Yamaha magneto puller available at Yamaha for about 20 bucks) try a two or three bolt puller (steering wheel type). Be careful not to thread the puller bolts too far into the mag. You will damage the stator!
f) If it does not pop off, tap the puller main bolt with a hammer to help break the mount free.
g) Remove the two screws that hold the stator to the engine and tip the stator away.
h) Carefully remove the stator gasket.
i) Remove the clip that holds the plastic drive gear to the crank.
j) Pull the drive gear.
k) Locate and remove the drive pin from the crank.
l) Reinstall the gasket, stator and flywheel. At this point, you can reduce pump spring tension as described above, eliminate the cable completely by using a single cable conversion and/or remove the injector pump. Note: You really don't need to cover the injector pump hole but if you do, a simple brass freeze plug from the auto parts store will do the job for about a buck.
3. Removal of the pump:
Another method that can be used with the above method or alone requires the removal of the pump.
In most cases, you can simply remove the two mount screws and pull the pump out. Some engines, you will find that the pump will hit the cylinder as you try to pull it clear. In this case, the cylinder will need to be raised slightly to remove the pump.
Note:
- Each method will also allow you to now mix oil and fuel in the gas tank. I recommend a 32:1 ratio using and 2-stroke oil that contains ash. Don't use oils designed for water-cooled engines (or reduced ash oil)!
===================
From Dave @ www.bncracing.com
The easiest way is to remove the seat, disconnect the oil line from the oil tank, remove the oil tank, remove the oil line from the intake manifold, and plug that hole. After that, I just cut the oil line to the pump somewhere above the fan shroud (be sure to leave enough left to splice in a new hose should you want to reconnect it later), plug the hose with a screw, cut the oil pump output hose (again leaving room...) and plug it. I also disconnect the oil pump throttle cable, though you could simply cut it. Drain the gas, fill with pre-mix, replace the seat, and you're done. Be sure to mix according to the oil manufactures specs. Not pretty, but it's fast and easy.
It's always best to remove the pump, but it doesn't hurt to leave it in. I only remove them if I install an after market ignition system or do other work that exposes that area. The pump is driven by a nylon worm gear so even if the pump were to sieze, the gear would strip and you'd probably never know. I wouldn't worry about hooking the hoses together, just plug them to keep dirt out.
----------------
Hope this helps....
.
What size brass freeze plug did you use?
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