Polaris Riders Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, Out for a rally yesterday..noticed that when i go over somthing, say a small hill that would put one shock up in the air i get a little..well its hard to explain..i can hear it and feel it..almost feels like the shock drops down..know what i mean? Is there a way to check to see if the shock is worn out? Maybe its somthing else in the steering system..just feels like its coming from the shocks. I have them set up pretty stiff..i wouldnt think where the bike is only 8mths old i would wear out my shocks this early!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
hey bud first thing you changed your shock load buy screwing the top of the shock down right that stiffens them OK if so did you count threads or at least measure distance between top of shock and shock lock? make sure you do because it will throw your whole ride off i know this first hand when we first started racing the pred it all ways started to handle funny we checked everything out and found that the stock shock locks will turn on you even after a short while and lose "pre-load" so we had to adjust them every moto no kidding
so thats why we made our billet shock locks they clamp on top of the stock locks with a locking thread pattern and keep them put if you race i recommend them or even do a lot of ridding.
so to recap check the pre load on your shock make sure that they are set up the same this would be the first thing I would do if its not that then keep on searching.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah..i've checked the preload on them. I find no matter where i have it set at they do this. mine dont seem to be backing off yet. I Dont do any MX racing with mine..my bike is purely a fun machine, a few pits, some trails and such. So i probably have half the wear on mine then most people..this is what bugs me...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,103 Posts
You might be experiencing the "top-out" harshness that this suspension has been known to exhibit. Come winter time, or whenever you have a down period. I would either have a local tech, or send them to Carver Performance, for a freshening. Also have the 1/2" top-out spacer removed at that time. It supposedly helps with that harness problem, and also increases the front shock travel another 1" to a full 11".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok..so this is a normal thing? Ken..im curious..if htye put this stopper there and its THIS harsh when the shock is fully depresssed..how harsh is it gonna be when its removed? how much to refreshen the shocks?I am not hard on these shocks at all..i cant be forking out hundreds of dollers every so many months to Freshen them up..they still seem to work good..

Ok...if you lift your front end up, to fully extend the shocks and let it sit there..should the front end drop down? would this be normal? I have alot of preload on the shocks..I think it was like 40-45 threads...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
839 Posts
I had the same problem on mine after about a month of riding. If the spring is rubbing on the side of the shock you might have the same problem. There was side to side movement at the shaft. I checked it by just grabbing the shock and seeing if there was any side to side movement where the shaft goes into the shock body. It turned out that the shock came apart inside. the dealer replaced it for free and I haven't had any more problems.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,009 Posts
The drop down as you call it is what we call sag. Sag is how much your suspension droops when you sit on it. IE the ride height.

A good ball park figure to aim for when dialing in you quads suspension is 20%of total travel for the front and 30% for the rear.

One thing to remember here is that your shock springs are for setting your ride height, not for controlling if it bottoms out or not.

If you find that your quad is too soft or too hard for the way you ride it then you need to either re-adjust the dampening settings or get your shocks re-valved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok..so the pre-load on the front shocks does nothing for the firm or soft feel for the quad? it just adjusts the ride hight? That doesnt seem right to me..so your saying i can go put them on supper soft and hit a VERY large jump and not worry about bottoming out..that all the preload does it change the ride hight? Doesnt seem right to me..but im no pro..

I knew there was a forumula for figuring out how much pre-load to run..it was like, you measure it with no weight, then with weight, and divide by somthing to get the difference?? anyone know..
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,009 Posts
1) In a nut shell, yes that is what I am saying, if you had your shocks set up right for that kind of jumping! Pre-load on both front and back is for ride height. Your shock valving is what determines how fast or slow your shock compresses and rebounds. In real life it is much more complicated than that.

Here is a little bit of info from the race teck web page

Q: How do I know if my spring is off or my damping is off?
A: If you have a problem with bottoming, for example, it could be caused by either too soft of a spring or too little compression damping. The easiest way to get your spring rate in the ballpark is to do a "Valving Search" on our website. This will give you our recommendation for spring rate. Once you have the proper rate the rest is damping. That is what the Gold Valve® kits are all about, personal setup for you.

If your front end is diving, first of all, it should. If it dives too much or too little or if it bottoms you will need to do something about it. How much it dives can be affected by either spring rate or damping. When you hit the front brake, the front end dives. If you keep the brake on a constant amount the front end will dive and then oscillate around a certain height. Let's call this height the Dynamic Ride Height. This Dynamic Ride Height is totally determined by spring forces. How much it oscillates and how much it initially overshoots this height is affected by damping forces as well. Again the key thing is to do a "Valving Search" on the website.


Q: What is "Race Sag" (Static Sag)?
A: Static Sag or Race Sag is the amount the bike compresses from fully extended, with the rider on board.

Here's how to measure it.

First extend the forks or shock completely and measure from the wiper to the bottom of the triple clamp on forks or from the axle to a vertical reference point on the chassis. This is L1.
Take the bike off the stand, put the rider on board in riding position. Get an assistant to balance the bike or have the rider hold onto something, compress the suspension about 25 mm (1") and let it extend very slowly (slowly is the critical term). Where it stops, measure the distance between the wiper and the bottom of the triple clamp or the axle and the reference point on the chassis again. Do not bounce. This is L2. (If there were no friction in the seals the bike would come up a little further.)
Next lift up on the suspension and let it drop very slowly. Where it stops measure again. Do not bounce. This is L3. The reason L2 and L3 are different is due to stiction or drag in the seals and bushings. (If there were no friction in the seals or the linkage the bike would drop a little further.)
Half way between L1 and L2 is where it would come to rest with no friction. Therefore L2 and L3 must be averaged and subtracted from L1 to calculate true Static Sag.
Static Sag = L1 - (L3 + L2)/2
To adjust Static Sag make longer or shorter preload spacers or use the preload adjusters, if available.
It is important to note that there are no magic Sag numbers. However here are some guidelines to use as starting points.
Bike Type Front % Front mm Rear % Rear mm Rear Free Sag mm
Off-Road Bikes 22-25% 65-75mm 30-33% 95-100mm 15-25mm
Off-Road 80cc Mini's 22-25% 55-65mm 30-33% 75-80mm 10-20mm
Street Bikes 28-33% 30-35mm 28-33% 30-35mm 0-5mm
Road Race Bikes 23-27% 25-30mm 23-27% 25-30mm 0-5mm



go to their site here http://www.racetech.com/index.asp

While they are more in to dirt bikes a lot of the info crosses over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
hey Scott i don't want to get in to long discussion about this it takes me awhile to type if you call the shop ask for Jason or me i can help get you set up or get the problem fixed im not trying to sell you any thing just offering a 1 to 1 with you I race this bike and have spent a lot of time on set up i find if you can talk to someone it is better its hard to describe a problem and make it apparent to all i am not trying to ball hog just help.
509 216 1849
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,009 Posts
lol john you ball hogger you! lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks man..if i need somemore help i'll give ya a call!

Cool..thanks for the help everyone..
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top