I posted on another site also so if you have read this twice please forgive me but I need HELP. I need help figuring out why my front brakes are so tight. Sitting on the bike the right side Will Not spin freely. There is alot of resistance. The other side seems to spin pretty much without resistance. Everything looks OK but I am sure it is scrubbing speed. The brakes do not look worn. I have about 5 HRS on it so they should be broke in. I did recieve a recal notice but that was for bolts or something. THANKS!!!!
Front Brakes
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Joined
·
2,544 Posts
I checked my front brakes this weekend while out at Sand Mountain, and they ARE in fact VERY tight. The front wheels are so tight because of it that if you try to spin 'em they'll go 1/4 revolution at most before stopping. It's so bad that I can feel the quad trying to push itself through the sand.
I'm dropping it off at the dealer tomorrow to let 'em deal with it.
Rob
I'm dropping it off at the dealer tomorrow to let 'em deal with it.
Rob
Joined
·
453 Posts
I have a good idea what the cause is of the brakes dragging but there's no simple fix unless Polaris issues a modified caliper. The piston seal is what retracts the piston when the brakes are released, this is where the modification would need to be so they retract further. On my Hondas I can watch the piston retract when the brakes are released, I can't see it on the Predator.A slight modification to the seal channel in the calipers and possibly a thicker piston seal would cure the brake drag problem. There could be other issues with the master cylinder also but this is the most likely cause IMO.
Joined
·
453 Posts
I don't detect any pressure, the pistons can easily be pushed back with your fingers.
Joined
·
2,544 Posts
I'm hoping the dealer will call today to tell me the machine is ready, but we'll see.
In my case, the master cylinder is exerting too much pressure, because if you crack the bleeders on the caliper, fluid just drips out very quickly (and it doesn't take long to empty the reservoir either). It's the same as if you cracked 'em and then squeezed the brake lever.
Rob
In my case, the master cylinder is exerting too much pressure, because if you crack the bleeders on the caliper, fluid just drips out very quickly (and it doesn't take long to empty the reservoir either). It's the same as if you cracked 'em and then squeezed the brake lever.
Rob
Joined
·
2,544 Posts
Okay, got my machine back today finally. They re-bled the whole system and cleaned everything up. The brakes still drag a bit more than I'd like, but it's a huge improvement from before.
Before, attempting to spin the wheel (with it in the air) got 1/4 of a wheel revolution. Now I get almost one full revolution.
We'll see how long it takes to tighten up again. At that point I may end up disassembling the master cylinder myself and playing with it. Maybe it needs a spring change or something.
Rob
Before, attempting to spin the wheel (with it in the air) got 1/4 of a wheel revolution. Now I get almost one full revolution.
We'll see how long it takes to tighten up again. At that point I may end up disassembling the master cylinder myself and playing with it. Maybe it needs a spring change or something.
Rob
Joined
·
453 Posts
I managed to reduce the drag on the front wheels. Take the hubs off, the first thing I noticed was the cotter pins were not bent over far enough and were rubbing the hub cover. There are spacers each side of the hub bearing which run in a dust seal, take them out and lube the seals with grease. Remove the rotor from the hub, clean the powdercoat from the hub surface to reduce rotor run out. Polish the rotors where the pads make contact on both sides. Sand the pads to make sure they're flat. To help the brakes release better remove the bushings and lube lightly with silicone grease. I added a short section (3/8") of 5/16 rubber fuel line to the pins between the brake pads. Cut a small flat on the side of the hose and position this flat facing the rotor so the rotor doesn't rub the hose. Bottom the caliper piston in the caliper, push the caliper toward the center of the quad, now slide the hose sections tightly against the inner brake pad. Pump the brake lever, the hose will slide on the pin as the pads wear but still offer some help in releasing the brakes better. I now get 3+ tire revolutions vs 1 or less before the changes....
Thats not a bad idea slider but i dont think the difference in the 2 revolutions is gonna make much difference in overall performance. Thats just my opinion but i really dont notice it when i am riding and it doesnt seem to be doing any harm, at least not yet.
Joined
·
2,544 Posts
I'm going to do what powerslider suggested because the way I see it, if there really is a problem with the master cylinder as I suspect, this technique will help minimize the problem.
Plus, that much less resistance IS worth something, especially when racing.
I lost 5 mph up the hill at Sand Mountain comparing how my machine is now (with not quite one revolution) to where it was last Monday, when it would only make 1/4 of a revolution.
Rob
Plus, that much less resistance IS worth something, especially when racing.
I lost 5 mph up the hill at Sand Mountain comparing how my machine is now (with not quite one revolution) to where it was last Monday, when it would only make 1/4 of a revolution.
Rob
Joined
·
453 Posts
I just posted this for anyone that might want to try and reduce the front wheel drag. I wasn't happy with the way it was, there are many plus's to having less all around rolling resistance. The wheels now turn as easy as my Honda's so I'm satisfied with that.
Polaris has provided us with a diamond in the rough, the amount of finish detailing is entirely up to the individual owners. I will continue to look for ways to improve it and gladly share that info.....
Polaris has provided us with a diamond in the rough, the amount of finish detailing is entirely up to the individual owners. I will continue to look for ways to improve it and gladly share that info.....
Joined
·
453 Posts
I understand where your coming from Jeremy but it comes down to the bottom line. If they hand built each quad it would cost more, there is no perfect beast, as much as we would like to see one. I would have changed many things about the Predator if it was my call but that's not the case. For the money I still think they are a good buy but they are not perfect by any means...
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
