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http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I read this i dunno which to follow the ownners manual or this ????? Has any one used this method? And should i go with it ?
 

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I start it and run for 5 min and let it cool. I do that 2 times,then run it easy a couple of times and let it cool down. after first hour drain oil and change filter,check all bolts for tightness.than ride it easy for tankfull of gas or even 2 tankfulls.Thats the hard part riding a predator easy. than check every thing again,change oil if you want to, dont have to though,I would after 8 to 10 hours of riding.I use what polaris recommends.Riding easy means no fast starts,dont wind it out ,dont ride at same speed for long periods of time, dont let idle for a long time,and let it cool down,dont get motor to hot,let fan come on but dont keep running to long or hard after that,let it cool.Keep an Eye on coolant level also it will move alittle but thats OK just dont let it get to low. That is how I break my quads in,hope it helps you and good luck.
 

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run it hard, thats what its made for! if its gonna break, you might as well have polaris fix it! i always break them in like im going to ride them. they always have stayed reliable.
 

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I followed the recomendations in that article and so have other I know, basicly you break it in hard but make sure to not overheat it. Pay attention to what they say, engine braking and deceleration are important and you need to get in a straight and open it up a few times too.

That first oil change at one hour is VERY important, more so than how you break it in. Read what he has to say about aluminum film on the engine internals and then look at that shiney sprakely oil after an hour. Change it again at ten or so hours.
 

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also it is best to use non-synthetic oil correct?? and for how long should i use it ?? also... while running it hard for the break in, will that cause more of a chance for the tranny messing up???
 

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any synthetic oil is better than the regular oils, polaris recommends that you only use there ps-4, which is synthetic, myself, I use the amsoil 0W40.
 

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oh what i mean is... at that website it says this....

~3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.~
 

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Never use synthetic oil during break-in, it even describes why on the amsoil webpage I beleive. The other thing is that you need to be careful about which synthetic oil you use because of the clutch. If your synthetic oil has teflon in it for instance you might risk clutch slippage. Stick to the polaris stuff or a standard oil.
 

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on amsoil,s website, they are refering to cars/trucks, and they also tell you that it is ok to break in with a full synthetic, but it may take a bit longer. just like every new corvette or viper, your predator comes with synthetic oil in it from polaris. although there are different levels in quality of synthetic oils, any one designed for a wetclutch application is fine to use in a predator. the main difference in these oils is that they leave out the friction modifier's.
 

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Ahhh... ok. I think I will stick to breaking in an engine with whatever type of oil it comes with from the factory, but that makes sense. I wish polaris was more upfront about what the heck the ps4 oil is and what weight it is.
 

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I put the oil temp on my right away. And found out that this mach hits 240 degrees real fast. And that's the temp in the oil tank, inside the engine temp will be 10 to 15 (bearings) degrees hotter. Standard oil starts breaking down at 250 degrees. Synthetic oil is good for 300 degrees (+or-). That's why I think polaris wants you to run there oil. When I run my mach real hard the temp hits 270 in the oil tank (drag racing).

later
 

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synthetic oil may cost a bit more, but the extra protection is well worth it. stick with the ps-4 or another high quality fullly synthetic like amsoil or mobil 1, just make sure it is friction modifier free.
 
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